Live . Explore . Taste . Toast

Hanoi Diaries: Chaos, Coffee, and the Charm of the Old Quarter

Hanoi Diaries: Chaos, Coffee, and the Art of Crossing the Street

There is something undeniably magnetic about Hanoi. It’s loud, it’s chaotic, and it is absolutely beautiful.

Recently, my wife Bits, and the kids, Saumu and Ayu traveled to Vietnam and our starting point was Hanoi — the heart of Vietnam. We decided to make Hanoi our base camp for the northern Vietnam adventure, and looking back, it was the perfect decision. If you’re planning a family trip that balances history, adrenaline, and some serious eating, this is the place to be in.

Living in the Heart of the Action

We stayed at the Hanoi Paon Hotel right in the Old Quarter. If you’ve never been to Hanoi, the Old Quarter is exactly what you imagine—narrow streets, endless scooters and bikes, and life spilling out onto the pavements. Staying at the Paon meant we were in the thick of it. We didn’t need to travel far to find excitement; usually, we just had to walk out the front door.

Cyclos and City Views

One of the first things we noticed were the unique rickshaws, or cyclos. Unlike the ones back home where the driver pulls you, here the driver sits behind you and pedals. It feels a bit like you’re being pushed into traffic in a comfortable armchair! It was a fun, slightly thrilling way to see the streets without dodging motorbikes on foot.

Hop-On Hop-Off bus

To get a better lay of the land, we also hopped on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus. It’s a great way to save your legs and see the major landmarks while Saumu and Ayu pointed out everything that caught their eye from the top deck. They gave us Non Las, Vitanam’s iconic conical hats to protect from the sun and rain and audio guides in english.

The Adrenaline of Train Street

You can’t go to Hanoi without visiting the famous Train Street. It’s surreal—a narrow residential street with cute cafes and a railway track running mere inches from the doorsteps.

Pro Tip: You must know the train schedule before you go.

Because we timed it right, we managed to snag a great spot at a little cafe right next to the track. Sipping a drink while waiting for a massive locomotive to speed past you is an experience I can’t quite describe. The cafe owners usher you back, everyone holds their breath, and whoosh—the train is right there in your face. It was easily a highlight for the kids.

Stools, Street Food, and a History Lesson in a Cup

Food is a religion here. We embraced the local style fully, sitting on those tiny plastic stools on the pavement, slurping down bowls of steaming Pho. There’s just no replicating that flavor anywhere else. We also grabbed Banh Mi whenever we could—crunchy, savory, and perfect for a quick bite.

But the real star? The Egg Coffee at Giang’s.

If you haven’t heard the story, it’s fascinating. It was invented by Mr. Nguyen Van Giang in 1946 when he was working at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. There was a severe shortage of fresh milk due to the war, so he whisked in egg yolk as a substitute to create a creamy froth. The result is like a liquid tiramisu—rich, sweet, and incredibly addictive. Sitting at Giang’s, drinking the original recipe, felt like sipping on history.

A Taste of Home

As much as Saumu and I loved Vietnamese and other international cuisine in Hanoi, Bits and Ayu craved some Indian comfort food now and then. Surprisingly, Hanoi delivered big time. Infact, we discuss quite often that we got Indian food better than most places in India in Vietnam.

We found some absolute gems:

Dosa at Annam in Hanoi

Annam: We went here for their Dosa, which was crispy and hit the spot perfectly.

Aalishan: Their Butter Chicken was rich and creamy—Bits and the kids loved it.

India Gate: This was a standout for us because they served excellent, non-spicy Indian food, just the way we like it. It felt like a home-cooked meal right in the middle of Vietnam. The owner was great and even served me a pho which his staff got from a pho place across the street.

Beyond the City

While we loved the hustle of Hanoi, we also used it as a base to do a day trip to Ninh Binh. But that… is a story for another post.

For now, Hanoi remains etched in our memories as a city of incredible contrasts—where you can watch a train rush by your coffee cup and find the perfect Dosa thousands of miles from home.

Live. Explore. Taste. Toast.

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